A hair dryer should work fine, it just may take a bit longer to get the pieces heated. I dremeled the texture from the backside to minimize the seam between the two layers. So using this method, I took the traced foam pieces, heated them, and folded them against my ankles. Dremel 85422 Silicon Carbide Grinding Stone, On to Plastidipping and Painting the Armor->. I used the sharpie tick marks that I made earlier as a guide. Trace the base pattern onto your foam with either a marker or a sharp object, like an awl or a seam ripper that makes a small groove in the foam. *** Putting complex bends and curves in EVA Foam armor can be tricky, since the foam is very elastic and flexible. You do this by heating the face of the foam with the heatgun. I only use superglue for assembling my EVA armor. The boot & boot upper will not be glued together. Over a semi-soft cutting surface like a cutting mat or wood cutting block, use a sharp X-acto for craft knife to carefully follow the lines you've traced. This is the Doc Marten boot with the EVA shell applied. I could have made this from a single piece, but the model shows a seam there, and making it in two halves allowed me to replicate the shape of the curve accurately for the two kneepads. Because of the rotation of the sanding drum, you'll want to grind from left to right. If you do, you'll end up with a burned/scorched spot. Resin won't actually stick directly to EVA foam. Make sure to move the foam around on the hitch ball or you'll get an uneven curve. These are the boot tops on my Marcus Fenix boots. You don't want to heat it up too much. I used the same process for the slots cut into the face of the boot top just below the kneepads. Thanks in advance. Use an X-Acto knife to cut the piece out of the foam. The rotation of the drum is bad about grabbing the foam & spinning around the edge of the piece. Using the EVA foam as a sort of sanding block, dip it in the water and get a few drops to stick to it, then "sand" the glued surface you wish to level/shape. Steven Evans. Cutting and Shaping the EVA Foam. Just take your metal ruler & mark the line with a sharpie. Here's the boots just about done. Upper Right Photo: This is the shoulder paudron pieces after they've been cut out, heated to remove the texture, and the edges dremeled to give them a smooth rounded edge. I know some people use hot glue & other adhesives, but I've found that my coating/painting aheres better if hot glue is not involved. As you can see, the kneepad is made from two halves, that are heat formed & then glued together. My big concern though is with the actual heat gun itself, in all the videos, people are bringing it near their hands and touching the foam as they heat it. If you release pressure from the trigger the heat gun will turn off immediately. One of the most important features is the delicately named ‘dead man’ switch. I haven't ever come close to melting or burning the foam. That usually seals most of the pores. I've also found that you can rough cut foam (especially on EPP) and skip sanding it, just heat it with a heat gun and as the suface particles melt the foam suface smooths out nicely. You'll start the process by cutting out your paper template. I usually grind the new drum along the side of the disc on my bench grinder, but I'm sure you can use a grinding stone, concrete floor, etc. If you were to work from right to left, the drum will dig down into the foam & not float across the surface. This gives you a much smoother surface when you get to painting the armor. Thick or thin, foam will adapt to your different projects. At a rate of approximately 10 centimeters per second traced foam pieces, heated them and! 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